Quirky name...Quirky Food....One Hell of a view
Walking along the Banking district of London towards the dedicated entrance in Heron Tower, where after a "check of the list" by the doorman we were taken by a glass lift whizzing us in seconds up to Duck & Waffle on the 40th floor, or its glitzier sibling Sushisamba two floors below.
The views are, as you might expect, stunning – if you’re pointed in the right direction and, preferably, sitting at a window table (many of which are for two diners only). Alternatively, linger in the entrance bar, where you can press your nose against the glass and stand aghast at the unencumbered view of London.
Food is an "trendy" deigned to tantilise diners who are not here to eat but be ahead of everyone else on the block. Dishes are a mix of small plates, raw offerings (oysters, ceviche) and a few main courses (including roast chicken and the namesake duck confit and waffle).
Dishes vary a great deal, from the restrained - three dense pollock balls in creamy lobster sauce. To the overly creative, beetroot chunks with watery goat’s curd and sticky knobs of honeycomb crisp. Prices are as high as the venue itself; Desserts of cold rice pudding, and chocolate brownie sundae, were more generous. Service wavered between keen and stationary. With dishes arriving at odd intervals and without thought of how far along we were in our current dishes. A pre-lunch flatbread arrived 10 minutes into the main course and had to be comped by the floor manager. Another downer: all that glass, plus marble and wood tables and a low ceiling (with yellow ‘waffle’ design) mean the acoustics are terrible. For such an average sized space the reverb of voices could drown out many parts of a conversation.
D&W is open 24/7, so breakfast or late-night snacks are further possibilities. Well worth a visit to say you've done it and seen the view, not worth a second view as the menu is adequate but doesn't require any further investigating.